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| Click below to see an interactive Google Map |
Discovering Long Point Again
Catherine and I “discovered” Long Point Provincial Park in 2014, and we camped there in 2015 and 2016. I also camped in this park a year or two later with Chris, also in May and on the same cozy campsite. The main reason we returned repeatedly was the lack of black flies in May. After our disastrous trip to Algonquin Park in May/June 2013—described in my blog with the self-explanatory title, “Defeated by Black Flies”—we decided never to camp up North during black fly season.
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| My campsite in 2015 and 2023. Still beautiful! |
Located on the shore of Lake Erie, with campsites nestled in sandy dunes, Long Point offered a virtually bug-free camping experience. The windy conditions in May helped keep most flying insects away. However, ticks were abundant—as Catherine realized after lying on the sand for about 20 minutes—and poison ivy was ubiquitous, so I avoided taking shortcuts across the park. Despite these minor inconveniences, Long Point remained a reliable early-season retreat.
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| A photo of Catherine and me in 2015, interposed on our campsite in 2023 |
Long Point Provincial Park
This time, I decided to spend five days (May 22–26, 2023) at the park by myself, just after the Victoria Day long weekend, during which the park had been 100% full. The weather was perfect, although on the cool side—which was expected. After all, when camping with Catherine in 2016, it had been freezing, and we could swear we saw falling snowflakes! As long as there was no rain, I was not going to complain. My last attempt to reserve a campsite in 2019 had been canceled due to heavy rainfall flooding many campgrounds.
I took a rather circuitous route through Port Dover, which turned out to be fortunate. I realized I had forgotten to bring my citrus hand juicer—and I had plenty of lemons and oranges with me! Thankfully, the hardware store was open and carried a sturdy juicer.
My very familiar campsite (42°34'40.5"N 80°22'46.9"W / 42.577917, -80.379694) was cozy, in a sandy hollow/dune, very close to Lake Erie, and relatively sheltered from the wind. However, during my stay, for the first time, there was no wind—and because of that, I got acquainted with certain insects I had heard about but never seen before.
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| My car and tent were plastered with midges |
At first, I thought they were mosquitoes, yet they did not bite, nor did they produce a buzzing sound while hovering around my ears. Then I was shocked when I saw my car and tent plastered with them!
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| Midges: annoying, but harmless |
They are called “midges” and begin to appear when the Lake Erie water temperature warms. They live from a few days to a few weeks. They do not bite but can be quite annoying, emerging from the lake in large swarms; they even appear on radars! Their huge numbers create mounds of dead bugs and can be a nuisance. Yet they are vital to the Lake Erie ecosystem, serving as a major food source for fish, migratory birds, and other wildlife. Their presence is a positive sign of a healthy lake, as they require clean, well-oxygenated water to survive.
In any case, I much preferred midges to mosquitoes—or black flies—and managed to coexist with them. I could, however, understand why some campers were annoyed and reluctant to visit the park during this period in the future.
Meeting Fellow Campers and Wildlife Encounters
I brought my mountain bike and rode along the park roads, including the main road and the residential streets in Long Point. Incidentally, I had purchased the bike in May 2015, just a few days before camping with Catherine in Long Point for the first time!
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| Canadian Goose were quite common in the park |
While riding, I noticed a car towing a small camper trailer arriving at one of the campsites. I had never seen such an original design, so I approached the young driver, and we ended up talking for a while. He had purchased it a month or so earlier in Florida. Since it was made in the United States, he did not have to pay any duties in Canada, only the HST (Harmonized Sales Tax) of 13%. The trailer was small, yet surprisingly spacious. At the time, I had just begun thinking about buying a small camper trailer myself, so I asked him plenty of questions.
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| The beach, as seen from my campsite. It was patrolled by park wardens, yet there were very few people |
Later, a couple with a pop-up tent trailer arrived and camped not far from me. I spoke to them, and although they liked their trailer, they honestly said they wished they had bought a “regular” hard-shelled camper, which did not require any setup, was more secure and water-resistant, offered more storage space, and held its value much better. I had heard similar opinions before, and this was one reason I preferred a smaller hard-shelled camper. Besides, when traveling and camping in the Rocky Mountains, hard-shelled campers were often the only type allowed on campgrounds due to active Grizzly Bears.
During my rides, I also spotted a very small turtle, which I carefully removed from the road. I saw a snake as well, but it quickly vanished into the bushes. Once or twice, I walked along the sandy beach adjacent to my campsite, although it was too cold to swim in the lake. I also enjoyed a couple of campfires, which were particularly relaxing and peaceful.
Port Rowan and the Gallery Art Bistro
Of course, I went to Port Rowan, a town Catherine and I had visited many times in the past. First, I parked close to the Boat House Restaurant, where Catherine and I had dinner in May 2016 when it was so cold we skipped cooking at the campsite, and I took photographs of the iconic boat houses—a prominent landmark of Port Rowan.
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| Iconic boat houses in Port Rowan |
The town had not changed much, although some stores were gone. I explored Franni's Attic Antiques, Uniques and Collectibles, a fascinating antique shop located in an old hardware store. Then I spent at least 30 minutes at the Port Rowan Thrift Shoppe. Once inside, I immediately remembered my previous visit and enjoyed a very intriguing conversation with the ladies working there. I even managed to resist my temptation to make a purchase at Twins Ice Cream Parlour, Catherine’s favorite, where she always bought a couple of scoops of excellent ice cream.
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| The hardly readable sign of The Gallery Art Bistro... |
Whenever we had visited Port Rowan, we always went to the Port of Dollars Discount Store, where in addition to buying something, we chatted with the owner. She once told us about her young son, who was struggling with cancer and receiving treatment at the Hospital for Sick Children, where he unfortunately passed away. The store’s building had formerly been a bank, and she even showed us the remnants of the old safe.
By 2023, the discount store was gone, and another business had apparently opened and closed, leaving the building empty with renovations underway. A little online research revealed the bittersweet story behind it.
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| If the park thinks that people are going to litter with $1,000 bills, it's very wrong! Besides, it's almost impossible to find a $1,000 bill in Canada! |
An article in Simcoe Reformer, titled “Long Road to Owning Business” by Ashley Taylor (September 04, 2019), provided many interesting details. Shauna Proctor had worked as a paramedic in Mississauga for 10 years. After a workplace injury, she returned to school, earning a Bachelor of Business Administration from Laurier University and then studying marketing for another three years at Conestoga College. In addition, she was an artist and eventually left the corporate world to focus on painting full-time.
In 2016, she purchased the property in Port Rowan to open “The Gallery Art Bistro”, and after over a year of renovations, the grand opening took place on January 25, 2019. The bistro was both an art gallery and an entertainment venue, supporting the arts and local artists. Shauna said, “We have open mic night, karaoke nights, and live entertainment. People say that they really enjoy the atmosphere.” Indeed, 17 Google reviews of the business gave it 4.9 stars out of 5, confirming its positive reception.
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| Catherine in 2016 and the same place in 2023. Only the colour of the bench is different now! |
I had hoped to visit her bistro and gallery, but unfortunately, it was not possible. Fast forward to 2020: COVID-19, closed restaurants, and government restrictions made it impossible to continue operating (https://www.shaunap.net/). As a business owner, I can imagine the heartbreak of seeing years of planning, hard work, and financial investment vanish.
Shauna later summarized the reason behind the closure in a single sentence on Facebook: “The Gallery Art Bistro was killed by communism.” She now creates and sells her art and has permanently relocated to Mexico, citing overwhelming government overreach and violations of basic human rights in Canada. Stories like hers are a sobering reminder of how external circumstances can derail even the most carefully planned endeavors. I can only wish her luck.
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| The boat houses in Port Rowan |
Courtland, Ontario
On my way back home, I took a number of side roads, as I always enjoy exploring small communities and stopping at various attractions. This time, I took Road 59 north, then turned right onto Road 38 (Talbot Street). After crossing the railway tracks, I parked just meters from the tracks at Courtland Collectables Antique Market, located at 1 North Street, Courtland (42°50'25.2"N 80°37'59.5"W / 42.840333, -80.633194).
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| Courtland Collectables Antique Market |
Having always been interested in railroads, I quickly walked to the crossing and realized the tracks must have been recently abandoned, as no trains were using the line. While exploring, I ran into a gentleman with a dog and struck up a conversation. He turned out to be the owner of the Antique Market, which was for sale, and we spent almost an hour chatting about many things. He confirmed the rail line was no longer active and would soon be lifted. He also pointed to an empty piece of land across the tracks, explaining that buildings there had been demolished years ago. Google Street View photos from 2012 and 2013 even show the old buildings with silos.
We also shared stories about Cuba, a country we had both visited for vacation. It was fascinating to compare experiences of this unique destination.
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| Recently abandoned tracks and the Courtland Collectables Antique Market |
Later, I examined a map and realized that I was quite familiar with the CNR Cayuga Spur. In 2016, Catherine and I had biked the Delhi Rail Trail, parking near Fertilizer Road where the trail commenced and riding east. Across Fertilizer Road, a Co-op Fertilizer Plant and the westbound train line from Delhi to Tillsonburg appeared to still be operating at the time, and those tracks were part of the Cayuga Spur, passing through Courtland. Perhaps once the remaining tracks are lifted, the right-of-way could become an extension of the Delhi Rail Trail, providing a new trail for walking, cycling, and other recreational activities. Such trails are excellent for outdoor enthusiasts and communities alike.
Fernlea Ivix Non-Profit Used Books
While driving along Highway 3 between Courtland and Delhi, I spotted a big sign: “Recent Used Books.” Like a magnet for book lovers, I couldn’t resist stopping.
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| Fernlea Ivix Non-Profit Used Books, located in an old motel |
The full name of the store was Fernlea Ivix Non-Profit Used Books, located at 1269-1271 Highway 3, Norfolk (42°50'52.3"N 80°35'19.4"W / 42.847861, -80.588722), in a building that used to be a motel. I was absolutely impressed with this bookstore! Not only was the selection eclectic, but many books were rare gems, well organized, and easy to find. The entire establishment was exceptionally well-kept and uncluttered, and the personnel were pleasant and helpful.
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| Fernlea Ivix Non-Profit Used Books |
The bookstore did not accept Readers Digest Condensed Books, textbooks, or encyclopedias, thus avoiding the accumulation of items often impossible to give away. I could have spent many hours browsing, but I deliberately limited my visit. I did, however, purchase one engrossing book: Lodz Ghetto: A Community History Told in Diaries, Journals, and Documents, edited by Alan Adelson and Robert Lapides.
It was an excellent book. While I had read extensively about the Warsaw Ghetto, this was the first time I encountered a comprehensive history of the Lodz Ghetto and its extremely controversial Jewish Council leader, Chaim Mordechaj Rumkowski. He is particularly remembered for his speech “Give Me Your Children,” delivered when the Germans demanded the deportation of 20,000 children to Chełmno extermination camp. In his September 4, 1942 speech, Rumkowski pleaded with the ghetto residents:
“A grievous blow has struck the ghetto. They [the Germans] are asking us to give up the best we possess – the children and the elderly. I was unworthy of having a child of my own, so I gave the best years of my life to children. I've lived and breathed with children. I never imagined I would be forced to deliver this sacrifice to the altar with my own hands. In my old age, I must stretch out my hands and beg: Brothers and sisters! Hand them over to me! Fathers and mothers: Give me your children!”
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| Fernlea Ivix Non-Profit Used Books. The bookstore is extremely well organized and it's very easy to find whatever you're looking for |
I must also add that the bookstore was staffed by a team of volunteers, and its profits were used to assist schools in Haiti, particularly College Pratique and College Normalien in Fort Liberte. I greatly admire such efforts, though I also feel a sense of humility considering the extremely difficult conditions in Haiti, including violence, kidnappings, and lawlessness. Fort Liberte lies in the north of the country, relatively far from the capital where most violence occurs, so I hope the schools there have been relatively sheltered.
Reflections on the Trip
Even though I only spent four nights in the park, the trip was richly rewarding. I reconnected with familiar places, enjoyed quiet moments on the dunes, and met several interesting people along the way. The bike rides, beach walks, and campfires offered a simple yet profound sense of relaxation and connection to nature.
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| Canadian Goose |
Exploring Port Rowan and hearing the story of Shauna Proctor reminded me of the delicate balance between passion, dedication, and circumstances beyond our control. Courtland’s abandoned rail line and the antique market revealed hidden histories waiting to be discovered. Fernlea Ivix Non-Profit Used Books offered a window into lives and struggles far from my own, connecting me to global stories in a personal, tangible way.
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| Poison Ivy is everywhere in the park |
In the end, Long Point Provincial Park is more than a campsite; it is a place of quiet discovery, reflection, and unexpected encounters. Each visit offers something new—whether it’s the swarm of midges on a windless day, a rescued turtle on a bike ride, or the stories of the people and communities nearby. This trip reminded me that even familiar destinations hold surprises, and that traveling alone can be just as enriching, if not more so, than traveling with companions.
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| Courtland, Ontario. Another railway line is gone... |
As I packed up and prepared to leave, I felt a profound sense of gratitude—for the natural beauty of Lake Erie, for the small towns and their histories, and for the chance to slow down and truly observe the world around me. Long Point Provincial Park will always hold a special place in my heart, and I look forward to returning, ready to discover its next quiet wonder.
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