More photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jack_1962/sets/72157631523724473/
|Driving from Toronto to Temagami, over 450 km|
If you ask any nature-loving Ontarians what does the word „Temagami” remind them of, you will most likely hear such replies as ‘Grey Owl’, ‘old growth forest,’ ‘huge pines’, ‘abundant lakes’, ‘dense forests’, ‘canoeing’, ‘portaging’, ‘boating’, ‘fishing’, ‘camping’, ‘wilderness’ and ‘nature’. Indeed, it is one of the most renowned regions in Ontario—not only because of Grey Owl, who arrived in that area in 1907 and made it famous all over the world, but also because 100 years later it still remains relatively unspoiled and offers countless activities to anyone who loves nature and wilderness.
|Canoeing on Anima Nipissing Lake to our first campsite on a small island|
In August, 1995, I arrived in Temagami for the first time, spending 3 days on a small island on Lake Temagami (in a resort called “Deep Water Lodge”) and I have visited this area at least 3 times since then, sometimes stopping there for a few hours while driving up north, sometimes camping in Finlayson Point Provincial Park. Since Catherine had never before visited Temagami, we decided to spend there over one week and enjoy camping and paddling on some of its many lakes.
|In front of the store and coffee shop in Temagami|
|Our campsite on Anima Nipissing Lake, on a small island|
|Our campsite on Anima Nipissing Lake, on a small island|
I build a small fire pit on the shore of the island, collected wood and started a campfire. Since it was still windy, I had to keep it very small—besides, it had not rained for a while and everything around was very dry, so I had to make sure we would not start a forest fire.
|View from our island campsite on Anima Nipissing Lake|
|Canoeing to McLean Lake. It was windy again...|
On July 07, 2012, it was so windy that we could not go paddling anywhere and spent the whole day on our island, reading a bunch of magazines—“MacLean’s”, “Bloomberg Business Week” and my favorite, “The Economist”. The wind was so strong that I did not want risking having a campfire that evening. According to the weather forecast, it was supposed to be windy over the next few days, so we came to a decision to cut short this leg of our trip and go back to Finlayson Point Park the next day.
|Small channel leading to McLean Lake|
|Campsite # 33 in Finlayson Point Provincial Park. It was just meters from Lake Temagami|
|Beautiful Train Station in Temagami. Although no longer used by passengers, the train still stops here!|
|Temagami Fire Tower|
|View from Caribou Mountain|
|Catherine near the local airlines, "Lakeland Airways" in Temagami|
|Our second campsite in Finlayson Point Park. We loved sitting on the rock in front of our camping,|
where we read, drank cold beer, wine and observed boat traffic
Not far from our campsite was a historical plaque about Grey Owl:
Grey Owl, 1989-1938.
As a youth in England, Archibald Belaney was fascinated with wildlife and tales of North American Indians. At seventeen he came to Canada and soon began living among the Ojibwa on Bear Island. He adopted native dress and customs and worked as a woodsman, fire ranger and trapper in north eastern Ontario. In the 1920s Belaney became concerned that the lumber industry and sportsmen were plundering the northern wilderness and threating the survival of native culture. He took the name Grey Owl (Wa-Sha Quon-Asin) and turned his efforts to conservation, pleading for recognition of "the natural brotherhood between man and animals". Grey owl gained international fame as a writer and public speaker.
July 10, 2012, we drove on Temagami Access Road to a huge parking lot, where
cottage owners and tourists park their cars.
Since many people haul their boat trailers as well, the road was
extremely rutted and grooved. While
driving on it in 1997, I thought my car would lose all its wheels—and this time
it was not much better either. Once we
put the canoe on the water and parked the car, we paddled around Temagami
Island—there were some campsites here and there—and eventually reached Bear
Island, the second-largest island in the Temagami area (after Temagami
Island). Bear Island is home to the Temagami First Nation (Anishnaabe-Ojibwe),
Grey Owl used to live there as well as a very prominent native painter,
Benjamin Chee Chee was born there (his unique paintings of birds and animals
always appeal to me, their simplicity is exquisite); unfortunately, he had a
very troubled life and eventually committed suicide. First, we stopped at a dock and went to Hugh
McKenzie’s art studio—he is also well-known native artist in the area. We chatted for a while with Marty, yet
another local artist, who told me that this studio had also been used by
Benjamin Chee Chee. Then we walked to a
nearby church (St. Ursula Roman Catholic Church)—unfortunately, it was closed
and I was unable to determine if holy masses were still celebrated there. We got back into the canoe and paddled to the
main dock, in front of a store/post office.
There was a historical plaque with the following inscription:
|On Bear Island, near the Roman Catholic Church. I just bought|
this card from the art studio, it was painted by Hugh McKenzie
Temagami Post, 1834
The first Hudson's Bay post on Lake Timagami was established on the south shore of Timagami Island in 1834 under Chief Trader Richard Hardisty, the father-in-law of Lord Strathcona. It was essentially an outpost of the Company's larger establishment on Lake Timiskaming in the Ottawa Valley. Temagami (originally Timagami) was not a large center of trade and, in its early days, was abandoned several times. However, in these instances the consequent establishment of rival traders induced the Company to reopen the post. In the 1870's it was moved to this site on Bear Island.
meters up the hill stood a memorial dedicated to the veterans of World War I
and II. We got ice cream at the store
and later had an interesting conversation with the store keeper, who was also a
postmasters (or postmistress) and a paramedic.
|Loon Lodge on Lake Temagami|
On our way back we stopped at Loon Lodge where we bought French fries—as well as I spotted the “Deep Water Lodge” across the lake, where I stayed for a few days in 1997. While driving back on Temagami Access Road, we stopped at the local garbage dump, just meters off the road. It was closed, yet we entered it—and of course, immediately spotted several black bears rummaging through garbage! It was getting dark and it was impossible to take good photos. As Catherine and I were looking at the bears, another bear materialized and was standing between us and the car, yet it quickly moved on. Once we went to the car, we saw yet another bear which must have been hiding in the forest, mere meters from us.
|Canoeing on the Marten River near Marten River Provincial Park|
|Our canoe routes on Lake Temagami near Finlayson Point Park|
|Catherine on Lake Temagami, near a cottage with a moose|
|Our second campsite in Finlayson Point Provincial Park, with a massive rocky shore|
|A General Store and LCBO Agency off highway 11, north of Marten River Park|
|Catherine is showing the voracious and hapless raccoon|
to her Father.
Regrettably, two months later, he passed away...
Blog in Polish/po polsku: http://ontario-nature-polish.blogspot.ca/2012/07/pywanie-na-kanu-na-jeziorach-anima.html